|
|
|||||||
 |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
09-20-2005, 08:00 AM
|
|||
|
|||
Gourami
Blue Gourami
  Fish Profile
Description: Blue Gourami is but one of the names given to the extremely popular Three Spot Gourami. Although traditionally silvery blue in color, their colors can change considerably with their moods. During spawning they acquire a much deeper blue hue. The Opaline or Cosby Hybrid variation lacks spots, and has a darker blue marbling. The three spot Gourami sports but two spots; one in the center of the body, and a second at the caudal pentacle (beginning of the tail). The third spot is actually the eye. Adults reach up to five inches in length, and females are slightly larger. The scientific name trichopterus, is derived from the Greek words trichias (hairy) and pteron (wing) - referring to their long hair-like pelvic fins. Blue Gouramis are among those fish who possess a labryinth organ, which allows them to breath air directly. Other popular labyrinth fish include the Siamese Fighting fish (Betta). Habitat/Care: Hailing from the tropical waters of the Far East, Blue Gouramis are one of the most hardy of the Gourami family. Their preference is for thickly vegetated waters of any type. They can be found in ditches, canals, ponds, swamps, rivers, and lakes. Blue Gouramis tolerate a wide range of temperatures and are not demanding in terms of water conditions. However, they prefer soft, slightly acidic water when in breeding season. In the home aquarium they may be housed with a variety of fish, although it's usually best to keep them with fish of similar size. Generally only one male should be kept per tank, as males are highly territorial. However if the tank is large enough, or there are enough other fish present, this natural tendency will be diminished. Diet: These are exceptionally easy fish to feed, as they will accept virtually any foods, from flake to freeze-dried, to live foods. They will consume hydra voraciously, and are prized for their ability to eliminate this pest from the home aquarium. Breeding: Sexes are primarily differentiated by the shape of the dorsal fin, which is long and pointed in males, compared to the females' shorter rounded dorsal. Females that are prepared for spawning will show a pronounced swelling in the breast area, while the male will have a far more slender girth. Both sexes display a much deeper blue color during breeding periods. Because the male can be rather aggressive during spawning, the aquarium habitat should provide ample places for the female to take refuge. Failure to do so can result in injury to the female. Spawning begins with the building of the bubble nest by the male, which usually occurs early in the day. After a suitable nest has been prepared, the male will attempt to entice the female under it by swimming back and forth, flaring his fins and raising his tail. The female signals her readiness by biting his back; he responds by repeatedly brushing his back against her belly before taking her into a spawning embrace.During spawning the male wraps his body tightly around the female, turning her on her side or back so the eggs will rise unimpeded to the surface. This close embrace is also important because it brings the reproductive products as close together as possible. Because sperm cells survive only a matter of minutes in the water, the timing of their release and proximity to the eggs is critical. Just before the sperm are released, the pair may be observed quivering - a sure sign that spawning is near completion. The eggs are released immediately thereafter, and are fertilized by the time they reach the bubble nest. The pair may repeat the process a number of times over the course of several hours. It is not unusual for the number of eggs produced to reach into the thousands. Once spawning is complete, the female's involvement is over, and she should be removed to prevent her from being attacked by the male. From this point forward until they hatch, the male will tend the eggs, carefully rearranging them and returning any errant eggs back to the nest. Spitting streams of water is an interesting phenomenon often seen at this time in breeding males. It is believed the purpose of this behavior is to keep the eggs positioned within the bubble nest. The eggs hatch in approximately 30 hours. The fry should be fed infusoria and nauplii. Water changes should be frequent as the fry grow, especially during the third week, which is when the labyrinth organ develops. 
|
|
#2
09-20-2005, 08:14 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Pearl Gourami
Pearl Gourami
  Scientific Name: Trichogaster leeri Other Names: Leeri Gourami Family: Belontiidae Origin: Malaysia, Borneo, Sumatra Adult Size: 4 inches (10 cm) Social: Peaceful, suitable for community tank Lifespan: 8 years Tank Level: Top, Mid dweller Diet: Omnivorous Breeding: Egglayer, bubblenest Care: Easy pH: 6.5 - 8.5 Hardness: 5-30 dGH Temperature: 74-82 F (24-28 C) Description The Pearl Gourami is not only one of the most attractive, but also one of the hardiest and easiest to keep of the gouramis. Like others of it's family the body shape is elongated and laterally compressed. The ventral fins are long and thin, having the appearance of feelers. The mouth is small and upturned. Pearl and brown flecks covering the body give it a mother of pearl appearance, from which is derives it's name. A horizontal black line runs from the mouth to the tail, where it ends in a spot. Habitat/CareAccustomed to heavy vegetation in their natural habitat, they will thrive if given similar conditions in the aquarium. Floating plants, subdued lighting, and a dark substrate are ideal. Although they prefer soft acidic water, they are adaptable to a range of water conditions. This adaptability and their peaceful nature make them well suited to community tanks. However keeping them with overly aggressive tankmates should be avoided. Diet Pearl Gouramis will accept many foods, and are generally quite easy to feed. Flake, freeze dried, and frozen foods are all readily taken. For optimum health fresh vegetables such as lettuce, cooked peas, and spinach, may also be offered as part of a varied diet . Live foods such as black worms, brine shrimp, and glass worms are a good treat and conditioning food for breeding. Breeding Breeding is relatively simple. Adult males are easy to distinguish from the females by their deep red-orange coloration on the throat and breast. Another clue is the dorsal fin which is longer and more pointed on the male than the female. When ready to spawn the female will have a much plumper body than the male. Prior to breeding the pair should be conditioned by feeding them live or frozen brine shrimp and worms. Water in the breeding tank should be reduced to a level of about six inches. Provide plenty of floating plants and raise the water temperature to approximately 80 degrees. The male will build a bubble nest, after which spawning will take place beneath it. When spawning the male wraps his body around the female who will release hundreds of eggs. The eggs float to the surface where the male will tend them felicitously until they hatch. After the eggs have been laid the female may be removed, as her role is complete. After about four days the fry will be free swimming and the male should be removed. Feed the fry liquid food or infusoria culture several times a day. Freshly hatched (or frozen) brine shrimp may be offered at about two weeks of age. Fine flake foods may be offered once they are approximately one month old. Water changes should be performed every two to three days. As the fry grown larger they should be distributed between several tanks to reduce lethal build up of wastes. Poor growth or sudden loss of fry is often due to excessive waste.
|
|
#3
09-20-2005, 08:30 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Dwarf Gourami
Fish Profile   Scientific Name: Colisa lalia Other Names: Powder Blue Gourami, Red Gourami Family: Belontiidae Origin: Ganges, Jumna, Bramaputra Adult Size: 2 inches (5 cm) Social: Peaceful Lifespan: 4 years Tank Level: Top, Mid dweller Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallon Diet: Omnivore, eats algae Breeding: Egglayer - bubblenest Care: Intermediate pH: 6.0 - 7.5 Hardness: 4-10 dGH Temperature: 72-82 F (22-28 C) Description: The common name fits this fish well, as it grows to a size of only two inches. Males are slightly larger than the females and have a bright orange-red body with turquoise blue vertical stripes that extend into the fins. The dorsal fin of the male is pointed in contrast to the rounded dorsal of the female. Females remain a duller silvery blue-gray color, never achieving the brilling colors of the male. Several color hybrids exist, including Blue/Powder Blue), Neon, Rainbow, and Red/Blushing. Powder Blues are predominately blue with only a little red showing on the body. Neons display a brighter blue pattern than the standard variety. Rainbows have especially brilliant orange-red bodies and blue stripes, in addition to a green-gold metallic sheen. Reds are almost solid red throughout the body, with solid blue dorsal fins.  Habitat/Care: Originating from India, West Bengal, Assam, and Bangladesh, the Dwarf Gourami can be found in thickly vegetated waters. They are often found together with other Colisa species. In the river plains of northern India they are one of the most common fish, and are sold dried or as fish meal in many of the markets. Dwarf Gouramis are well suited to smaller aquariums, as well as community aquariums due to their peaceful nature. They should not be kept with very large or aggressive fish. Provide plenty of vegetation, including floating plants that cover part of the surface of the water. The optimum pH is in the neutral range, and water hardness should be 4-10 dGH.. The ideal water temperature is 77 F (25 C). Dwarf Gouramis can be skittish when subjected to noise, and should be kept in a quiet location. Diet: In nature gouramis eat small insects and larvae from the surface of the water, and graze on algae growth on plants. In captivity they will eat flake food, freeze-dried food, frozen foods, and vegetable tablets. To maintain good health, their diet should be supplemented with periodic feedings of live foods such as worms. Live foods should also be used to condition breeder pairs. Breeding: Lowering the water level to 6-8 inches and raising the water temperature to 28-30 C will trigger spawning. Vegetation is essential, as males build their bubble nest using plant material, which it binds together with bubbles. Nests are very elaborate and sturdy, reaching several inches across and an inch deep. Limnophila aquatica, Riccia fluitans , Ceratopteris thalictroides, and Vesicularia dubyana, are good choices for the breeding tank. Peat fiber may also be offered as building material. Once the nest had been built the male will begin courting the female, usually in the afternoon or evening. He signals his intentions by swimming around the female with flared fins, attempting to draw her to the nest where he will continue his courting display. If the female accepts the male she will begin swimming in circles with the male beneath the bubblenest. When she is ready to spawn she touches the male on either the back or the tail with her mouth.Upon this signal the male will embrace the female, turning her first on her side and finally on her back. At this point the female will release approximately five dozen clear eggs, which are immediately fertilized by the male. Most of the eggs will float up into the bubblenest. Eggs that stray are collected by the male and placed in the nest. Once all the eggs are secured in the nest, the pair will spawn again. If more than one female is present in the breeding tank, the male may spawn with all of them. The spawning sessions will continue for two to four hours, and produce between 300 and 800 eggs. Upon completion, the male will place a fine layer of bubbles beneath the eggs, assuring that they remain in the bubblenest. At this point the female(s) should be removed from the tank. The male will now take sole responsibility for the eggs, aggressively defending the nest and surrounding territory. In twelve to twenty-four hours the fry will hatch, and continue developing within the protection of the bubblenest. After three days they are sufficiently developed to be free swimming. The male should be removed from the tank once the fry have left the bubblenest or he may consume the young. Fry should be fed micro-food such as infusoria, rotifers, or commercial fry food for the first week. They can then be fed freshly hatched brine shrimp, and finely ground dry foods
|
|
| Bookmarks |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Bacterial infection to Gourami | toofishyy | Fresh Water Aquarium - Community Queries | 4 | 10-23-2005 12:12 AM |
Linear Mode
